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Car shopping 101
How to get wheels without a headache
March 3, 1997

It is possible to buy a new vehicle without spinning your wheels. In fact, it can even be fun.

First - and this isn't easy - sweep aside emotion and figure out exactly what type of car or truck would suit you best - unless you've got money to burn or just want a "fun" vehicle not needed for regular transportation. That means doing your homework, because there are hundreds of models out there. Do you want a small, medium or large car? Or do you want a light truck, such as a sport/utility or minivan?

If you haven't shopped for years, you'll find that automakers that once offered, say, only small, economical cars now offer a wide range of models of varying sizes and prices. Some even have luxury divisions. And you'll see that most light trucks have become very car-like - although most still don't ride as smoothly as a car.

Don't blindly follow the crowd. Sales of sport/utility vehicles have soared partly because they offer many nice features. But hefty fuel bills of a larger sport/ute soon might make you park it often - especially if it does lots of the gas-eating, stop-and-go driving common in the Chicago area. Conversely, some larger cars get an estimated 29 m.p.g. on highways and are reasonably economical in the city.

You probably should get the optional, larger engine. The standard engine usually is there to keep the base price low and often makes the vehicle underpowered - and potentially dangerous. The standard motor also often is excessively noisy because it works too hard most of the time - especially if the vehicle is filled with people and/or cargo. Bypass a standard three-speed automatic and get a four-speed, which often is offered. Three-speed automatics don't deliver the performance and fuel economy of those with a fourth gear. You often get better fuel economy with a larger engine and four-speed automatic because the engine isn't working as hard and the automatic has an overdrive gear.

Drive the vehicle you want - equipped as closely as possible to the way you will order it. For instance, there is a vast difference between a four- and six-cylinder version of the same vehicle. Drive under as many different conditions as possible. For instance, take the car or truck into congested city traffic, on high-speed expressways and over rough roads. You may find it looks great, but doesn't steer or handle to your satisfaction. Or you may find the dashboard too high for comfort and that it is impossible to see the trunk when backing up. After all, you are the one who must live with this vehicle.

Don't even think about cars or trucks you can't afford. And don't get carried away with options. Buying a vehicle is an emotional experience, and extras are terribly tempting at purchase time. Sales personnel will push options hard because they carry higher profit margins than the vehicle. But extras can cause the price to zoom from reasonable to ridiculous - for your economic situation. And it's no fun being a slave to a payment book. Also, the more options a vehicle has, the more problems it is likely to generate.

But get a vehicle without popular options such as air conditioning, and you'll have a hard time selling it privately. Or you will take a big hit when trading it in down the road.

Try three or four dealers for the best price. Of course, you should shop while armed with as much knowledge as possible - knowing about such things as road test evaluations, wholesale prices and buying incentives such as rebates.

But the days of the Yugo are long gone, and virtually all cars and light trucks have good quality and will last a long time with decent care. Price information means nothing to a dealer with hot-selling vehicles. If you think they're overpriced, too bad. A dealer naturally wants as much profit per unit as possible and will sell to the next person willing to pay his price for a popular car or truck if you walk out.

You won't necessarily get a good deal at a "one-price" dealership because of variables such as financing costs and vehicle trade-in prices.

No matter how good a negotiator you are, you'll never "beat" a dealer; he sells vehicles for a living - six days a week - and knows all the tricks of the trade. But you generally can do better if you buy during the last week in the month or on quiet days - Tuesdays through Thursdays. Don't expect salespeople to know much about the product; they're usually more concerned with the actual process of selling than about things such as overhead camshafts.

Always first negotiate the vehicle's cash price. Then concentrate on financing terms. Finally, turn to the trade-in price of your vehicle. Say no to add-ons, such as "paint sealant" and "upholstery protector." They're really unnecessary and carry highly marked-up prices.

Never forget that the purchase price is only part of a vehicle's cost. Expenses such as financing, operating and - most especially - depreciation costs mean a lot. Put as much down in cash as possible, get the lowest finance rate and opt for the shortest possible finance period. It's really that simple.

Oh, it's usually best - although sometimes a pain - to sell your current vehicle privately, instead of trading it in to the dealer. You'll get a wholesale price for it from a dealer because he must sell at a retail price for a profit.

A car with a prestigious nameplate generally depreciates less than one with a common nameplate, but insurance, parts and service for a prestige vehicle usually cost more.

Vehicles require much less maintenance than they once did. But you're still buying a very complicated mechanical device, even if it's a Saturn coupe. So make sure the dealer has a good service department; it's best if you can ask around to see how customers have been treated on the service end.

Always read the fine print if you decide to get an extended service warranty, which should be backed by a solid outfit. Engines and transmissions rarely fail, so it's usually a waste of money to put them under extended warranty.

Top mechanics say you shouldn't believe automaker claims about extra-long service intervals like "100,000-mile" spark plug change invervals. New car parts generally are better than ever, but they still lose effectiveness with age. Stick to the "severe-usage" service interval in the owner's manual if you're often in stop-and-go traffic - and your new vehicle should last a very long time.

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