Continue watering in fall right until the ground freezes, and pay particular attention to evergreens that don’t shut down as other plants do. We weatherproof our cars, our homes and our leather boots. Don't forget to winterize the garden.
"Many gardeners have mixed feelings about this time of year," says Doris Taylor, the Morton Arboretum's plant information specialist. "They are sad to see another garden year draw to a close, while at the same time relieved to get a break from weeding, watering and more weeding. But, there are still a few more chores."
Continue watering plants and trees until the ground is frozen, especially evergreens, because they don't shut down like other plants do. "The soil moisture really fluctuated this year," says Taylor, who manages the Arboretum's Plant Clinic. "Even though we've had some really big rains, people have been reporting that their soil is quite dry."
Decide if your trees and shrubs need a light pruning now or if they can wait until late winter. "If you need to take off one or two diseased or crossing branches, go ahead. You can also cut back limbs that are blocking a sidewalk or have overgrown their space. But don't do a complete pruning job," said Taylor. February and March are the best months to prune, when woody plants are dormant, so look for a future column on this topic.
For perennials, whether you cut them back or not generally comes down to personal preference, said Taylor. But she recommends not cutting back plants that have attractive seed heads that birds eat, such as coneflowers and Rudbeckia. Plants such as ornamental grasses or irises that have attractive seed pods are also worth keeping tall. They provide "winter interest" in the stark landscape.
However, don't cut back evergreen perennials such as alumroot, bishop's cap, lavender, evergreen ferns and Christmas-rose. "You can remove brown leaves and give them a haircut, but don't cut them all the way back," Taylor said. "You want to protect the crown and give the plant some insulation from the cold."
Other good housekeeping tasks are to remove weeds and their seeds and discard any diseased or infected leaves in the trash can. Don't compost them. Diseased leaves harbor spores that can re-infect new leaves next year. "This year we have a lot of fungal problems, powdery mildew, leaf spots and even spider mite problems," Taylor said. "So the more you can eliminate diseased leaves, the better."
When temperatures are consistently below freezing, usually after Thanksgiving, put down a 3- to 4-inch layer of winter mulch. (If you mulch too early, you may delay the soil from freezing.) While not necessary for all plants, winter mulching keeps soil moist and protects plants from winter freeze-thaw cycles.
If not protected, some plants can "frost heave" up out of the ground. Good plants to mulch include alumroot, lady's mantle, lamb's ears, ferns, small bulbs such as crocus and snow drops, newly planted perennials, shrubs and trees, as well as plants alongside sidewalks. Mulch can be composted leaves or Christmas tree boughs or wood chips. "The bigger or coarser the pieces, the better. Just don't let the mulch touch the plants' stems," said Taylor.
While these chores can be a bore, Taylor said to think of it this way: "The more time spent in tidying up the garden now means less work in spring." For more garden winterizing tips, visit www.mortonarb.org. Choose "Plant Trees," then "Plant Clinic," then "Seasonal Questions."
Laurie Casey is a staff writer at the Morton Arboretum in Lisle.
